Today my friend Kamilah helped me with getting some context shots of Phillyware in action. We used the bright green colors in the salad to contrast the black fork. I’m planning on taking a lot more photos once the final models arrive, but for now I really wanted to just get a few context photos.
Although I’m waiting on my final cuts to be sent back to me so I can assemble and photograph them, I uploaded Phillyware to Ponoko’s showroom. For now, I’m displaying one photo and one rendering, but once the final design is received and assembled, I’ll update the photos. The price is likely to change, I was just eager to see the process in getting something up and sellable.
Check it out at the showroom here
Although it took me a while to get my hands on something to record video with, creating this 1:00 long video taught me a lot. In terms of technique, I learned Final Cut Pro, mostly thanks to Chris and Tom. I also now understand the process of editing videos better, and I have a better appreciation for the amount of time it takes to create a seamless sequence of video.
A 1:00 Glimpse of A Day in My Life from Wes Thomas on Vimeo.
I had fun in the process, check out the rest of our class and their videos here
While waiting back for my second round of prototypes from the laser cutter, I’ve been working on forming my first round so I can have practice for when the final ones arrive. Pictured above is the spoon being formed in the mold, which I must say has to be the hardest thing I’ve modeled in 3D so far. After the CNC milled out my design into the foam, I lined it with a thin layer of felt, to keep the surface of the hot acrylic nice.
The spoon and the fork required forming, and I learned a lot from these early forming attempts. Tines on the fork have to be carefully watched, as well as handle/tab shape while hot. Any warping or distorting of the handles really presents a problem. When attaching the tabs into the warped slots, the tabs don’t line up and the design doesn’t work.
The changes for the next round are exciting, and once I get them back I’ll begin working on them. For now our class has the first round of prototypes on display in our department, but we’re planning to revamp the display once we all make our adjustments before the final show.
Check out more updates at my previous Phillyware post
Put a lot of work into remodeling and re-rendering the new, more accurate forms over the past few days. I’m sending for the second round of prototypes tomorrow, I improved the slot and tab design, added a cutting edge to the knife, and modified the shape of the spoon bowl to reflect the new renderings. Kiki already slumped her flatware into their forms, and she even made a video of the process. 300 degrees, 5 minutes
Check out some of the new renderings at my coroflot online portfolio
On friday, I received my first round of laser-cut flatware back from Ponoko, a company that offers laser-cutting services in New Zealand. I have been pretty anxious to receive these, as I spent a good amount of time designing and planning for them
Initially, I was hoping to sell the final designs online, thinking that it may appeal to Philadelphians that want to eat in style. However, the intricacy of the cuts needed in between the tines of the fork presented a problem for the stainless steel. A representative from Ponoko emailed me saying that their laser cutter can’t do such small details, as the material begins to heat up and spatter, thus failing to define the shape I need. Also, they don’t engrave designs into metal yet, so I couldn’t get that Phillyware logo (above) engraved onto the handles of my pieces.
With this information in mind, I switched to jet black acrylic, a material that has been mastered by the Ponoko team. I am worried about the functionality of the flatware in plastic as opposed to stainless, but I’m going to continue to pursue getting these done in stainless in the future. Perhaps a water-jet cutter, as they do not heat up the material as they cut.
Anyway, here are some pictures of the laser-cut pieces that I received back. I created forks, knives, and spoons with many variations on each. I tried different ways to represent the Phillyware logo, and I tried some pieces flat and some pieces with 3D handles (slot and tab design that clicks into place). Please provide feedback on both the usability of acrylic flatware, the designs in general, and anything else on your mind after viewing these.
I was happy with the detail achieved by the laser on the fork tines, and I am a little uncertain with the quality of the engraving requested. It seems a little strange, almost like a checker-board pattern if you look close enough.
Also, these are simply the pre-forms.. they have yet to be formed into the proper shapes that will cradle food properly like real flatware does. They are flat coming from the laser cutter, as they are cut from flat sheets, but once formed I’ll be taking context shots of them and posting them up here. I’m going to have to send away again, as I’ve learned a lot from getting these designs back.
Coroflot link: http://www.coroflot.com/westhomas/phillyware_laser-cut_flatware
I’ve added a step-by-step guide to pimping out your granny cart to instructables
Check it out in action here
This project was originally created as part of a 3 day intensive charette at The University of the Arts, group members include Industrial Design students John Pender, Chris Mufalli, Kris Danna, Beck Linneman, John Egly-Russell, and myself.
For our Instructables assignment, I decided to go with a project I was involved in during a charette at The University of the Arts in the Fall of 2007. This project tackled the issue of underuse of grocery carts, or what are commonly known as ‘granny carts.’ We looked into easy ways to make rockin’ a granny cart a stylish way to express yourself while having it remain functional. This project initially interested me because it’s a quick, easy way to customize an exisiting underused product to cater to individuals’ needs while retaining its function.
We ended up with a couple different versions of modified granny carts, all of which we considered to be successful. The idea is unique and fun, hopefully it can entice some creative outside-the-box thinkers to contribute to this problem of underused G-carts!
With posting this instructable, my true interest is seeing how other people can contribute to the idea and modify these objects in new ways. I think it’d be really awesome to see a DIY concept like this grow into a topic of discussion where people post their modifications and customizations.
After you get your granny cart from an older relative follow the instructions, but feel free to incorporate your own creative ideas, as this project is all about personality and customization.
STEP ONE: PAINTING YOUR G-CART
You’ll need sandpaper, a dust mask or respirator, spray paint, and spray primer. First, sand down the old paint. Next, mask off areas you do not want to paint with tape. After that, spray on primer, following directions on can. Once the primer dries, spray the desired color paint onto the granny cart and allow to dry. Always follow directions on can and spray in a well ventilated area.
Sand old paint
Spray primer after masking with tape
Apply first coat of paint
Coat a couple of times, let dry in between
STEP TWO: WHEELS
You can use most sized wheels, we used wheels about 10 inches in diameter that we found and recycled. Sand paint off of wheels with sandpaper. Mask off the areas you do not want to paint (such as rubber tires). Spray your fresh new paint, following directions on can (and in a well ventilated area, of course).
Sand old paint and mask areas
Paint wheels following directions on can
STEP THREE: GRIP
You’ll need handlebar tape (local bike shop) or grip tape/hockey tape, and a pair of scissors. Simply wrap tape around upper portion of handle, or wherever you’ll need grip and comfort. Carefully overlap each wrap evenly, stretching while wrapping to maintain a nice looking finish.
Grip Materials include tape and scissors
Begin wrapping grip
STEP FOUR: PUSH BOARD/ WHEELIE BOARD
You’ll need a portion of an old skateboard, some hardware (shown below), clamps, and a pencil. Cut the board with a bandsaw or a hacksaw if you do not have access to shop equipment. First draw your marks for attachment to the skateboard. Then, clamp board to another board (so you don’t drill into work surface) and then to the workspace or surface and drill holes. Make sure the holes are all the way through your skateboard. Align and fasten the hardware. After that, laminate a couple blocks (I used MDF) with wood glue. Wait for the glue to dry and then mark and drill your holes for the skateboard truck hardware. Align and attach trucks to risers. Attach the push board to the back of the cart. If you have steel wire, you can bend it (pliers or hands) and form a lock for the board to fold up and lock into place for travel.
Wheelie/Push Board Hardware
Drill holes all the way through material
Fasten Hardware to board
Create Risers for trucks to reach ground
Drill holes in risers for trucks
Attach trucks to risers
STEP FIVE: MAKING A SPOILER
To make a super-sweet spoiler for your G-cart, you’ll need some sheet aluminum, a drill, a metal drill bit, metal snips/ metal bandsaw, rivet gun, rivets, pencil/marker, and a straight edge/ruler. First, mark out your design on the metal with your pencil or marker. Then, cut out your design/pattern with the metal snips (or a saw if it’s thicker). Make sure to watch the edges of the cut material, as it may be extremely sharp (you might want to wear gloves). You’ll then need to drill holes at your connection points for rivets. Basically, this will act as a bolt that just holds the two pieces of sheet metal together, and it will retain a nice finish. Use the rivet gun to attach the rivets.
Super Sweet Spoiler
Rivet Gun and Rivets
Metal snips and pencil
Drawing on metal
Cutting design out of metal with snips
Cutting using bandsaw
Drill your holes for rivet connection
Spoiler ready for attachment
Rivet placement, prior to snipping with rivet gun
STEP SIX: CUSTOMIZATION
You can adapt these carts to however you want, and the whole point of this instructable is to see what others would do at this point with their personal customization. Personal hobbies are highly recommended, as the personal touch will really shine through your G-cart for all to see. Things like weaving, cutting metal designs, and creating containers or boxes are a few examples of customization. You can make boxes out of wood or fibreboard, but if you do not have access to equipment, recycled cardboard with slot and tab design can be used as well. You can cut this cardboard with a utility blade.
Weaving done to front of cart
Cutting Metal Flames
Laying out Metal Flames
Custom Made Box
NOW GO ENJOY!!
Here’s a few shots of pimped out granny carts in action:
